petites niouz :
Très très bon contact avec Brad ... produit innovant je trouve, et je suis tout frétillant à l'idée de faire avancer le schmilblick .
Il cherche à faire avancer le truc , et se contente pas de dire "vous avez merdé à l'installation"... je trouve vraiment la démarche top.
je vais de ce pas me recommander un jeu de joints / écrous de caches culbui/catalyseur pour pouvoir réessayer dès que la météo va me permettre .
chu chaud comme un caca
dernier échange :
Jean Louis,
I will send you some new screws, new shims and a few extra collars to try out. I will also look for the Torx Head screws I previously tried and send them to you if I can find them. The other screws seemed to tighten better.
As far as the refund, I appreciate your spirit! Let's figure out what is causing the issue. If it is SNAPGAP, I will send your money back later.
In the meantime, when you have a chance to play around in that blind spot on your 964, I will be very interested in the results. That is a very difficult location to do any valve adjustment. I have a '78SC and soon will post a video of installation with the engine in the car -- including an almost blind intake #6. I will send you a copy.
I like your paint marker idea. May be just a spot of "White Out" would work? I will try this.
Thanks again and keep in touch.
Brad
On Wed, Sep 25, 2019 at 4:22 AM Martin Jean Louis <
jean-louis.martin@xxx.com> wrote:
HI Brad ,
It’s a very nice commercial gesture to refund but it’s not necessary ..
I have buyed a tool who is really nice and very well designed , and I knew when I bought it weeks ago that it “propably” need some adjustment to find to perfect fit /perfect use.
It’s a great “adventure” to use such tools that are innovative. I really don’t need a refund

but some more shim & collar/nuts would be useful for sure
So let’s continue, I don’t give up using this tool . I’m not this sort of person

I find the principle very ingenious.
Some fixing maybe , some improvement Ok . but It works . proof for that is that for number 1 cylinder everything worked like a charm .
Honestly , it’s hard to work around the camshafts on a 964 .. little place .. you know. It’s not a myth that many mechanics did not even change the 6th upside spark plug.
The morning I had just swap my transmission gimbals ( right English word ? ) .. maybe was I tired

.
Yes the issue is all about collar not firmly “sticking” to the adjustment screw .
I’m over thinking about the oil on the thread … next time I will clean a little bit more … trying to spray some degreaser with some protection around (plastics , towel .. ) . just to be totally sure the collard did firmly stick to the adjustement screw .
2.
It sounds to me that on intake #6, the collar is not firmly attaching to the adjustment screw. This may be because the small cap screw was not fully fingertightened before using the 2 mm tool to tighten another 270 degrees. You have to overcome the small threadlocker patch on the screw with the fingert tightening. Note that once finger tight, you can go a bit past the 3/4 turn or 270 degrees with a tool so it is snug. The head of the 2 mm screw may round out if you go 360 degrees, but you are a good mechanic and will be able to feel it. The threads of the 2 mm screw will not harm the collar which is made of a very hard spring steel -- not a soft metal. If you are up for it, try to see if you can lock the collar to the adjustment screw by tightening the 2 mm screw a bit more. There is room for judgment call here.
I was thinking of a soft metal because of the light color .. ( “looks like” aluminium ) … maybe it’s a part/rootcause of “my” mistake. the #1cyl , I wasn’t afraid to overtighten the little screw because sufficient space and comfort let me do the 270° turn with enough ease .. on #6 cyl the lack of space , you know , I was not confident with the 270° or ¾ turn .. ( did I go too far ?? too short ?? )
In french we usually say : “je n’étais pas à ma main”: ”It wasn’t my “good” hand ” .
Other detail , on cyl #1 , after screwing/270° the little head screw , the collard is VISUALLY locked as we cannot see anymore the radial “slice “ inside the collar ( the slice is crushed ) .
On #6 .. it’s almost a “blind” working , Maybe I should have go ahead and try on #2 #4 etc .. cyl …
unfortunately I had lent my gauge & comparator to a friend ,so I did not want to take the risk too not be able to go back and disrupt all the valves because I needed my car on next saturday for the MOT check
Again .. maybe I was too eager to install this tool

☹
3.
Another reason for too large a gap on the intake #6 might be a worn rocker bushing or rocker shaft that has play in it. When firmly finger tightening the adjustment screw down to 0 gap rock and jiggle the adjustment screw and rocker back and forth to take out all play. If all play is not taken out, the adjustment will be too wide in the end.
This point is Ok
I have tried Torx Head screws in place of the 2 mm cap head and they just did not work as well :
Why ? they slip /broke ? the torque effort was too strong ? I would like to try to get some torx 2mm screws . maybe only on cyl6 ( access ) it would be easier ?
If you are willing to keep trying :
Oh yes

I did’nt give up

I will just remove the engine on spring probably (knowing me , It could be sooner

) to be more comfortable to work on .
It’s a C4 .. a little bit difficult than a C2 .. but .. It’s just the 4th time I did it

. It would gives me the opportunity to clean some parts
Last point : maybe would be a good practice to put a drop of paint / Security Check Paint Marker, in the junction between the collar/the adjustement screw just after locking the collar with the little head screw to visually confirm it’s firmly locked .
The only drawback is to wait 10mn that the lack dry .
But this way , the 0,10 gap accuracy is clearly confirmed.
Best regards.